Petzl athlete Enzo Oddo sends "Aubade" - 5.15aMon, 30/05/2011 - 12:47 — Petzl America -...
The young prodigy sits in front of the screen, watching the final version of the video, carefully following his every move.
Enzo Oddo : It’s cool to see these images again, especially since there a lot of them are from the redpoint !
Any comments about Aubade?
It’s really varied, the climbing is more technical, physical… You have to have good footwork, the climbing is more demanding.
This is your first 9a+ (15a) since Biographie. What do you think of it?
It’s not at all the same style. It’s pure strength, with very little endurance… In Aubade, there’s only one rest, and it’s bad, so you have to climb without stopping. In Biographie, there are many rests where you can really get it back, but it’s longer… But really, the difficulty felt about the same for me in the two routes.
Why has this route not been repeated much?
Surely because "Les Dessous de la Vierge is a crag" we don’t really think about climbing. The approach is 40 minutes, and there aren’t a lot of routes in this area to motivate a group of climbers to come.
Mexico, Cuba, Morocco… Has it helped you to climb in other places?
Yes, especially in Morocco with Arnaud and Aymeric, for the first ascent of Walou Bass, that really got me in shape! The walking, carrying, all the gear, the bolting, the climbing…. It’s not at all the same as at a crag, where you can chill a bit… In Morocco we had long days; it wasn’t the same!
So Saint Victoire finally gave in to you?
At "Les Dessous de la Vierge" crag, yes, except maybe for a project that Gérôme Pouvreau is working at the moment, but I’m not sure I’ll return for that route… On the other hand, there are a lot of other crags with classic routes, like "Le Médius", "La Boule" etc. that I still haven’t visited.
So, a 15.b soon?
We’ll see…This summer I’m going to Céüse, but it’s too hot in Spain; it’s impossible to climb. I’ll go to Spain in November, when it starts to stick!
Pictures and video editing by Fred Ripert