RocTrip BC Squamish 2005

June 24-26

This year Petzl and Arc'teryx brought the RocTrip to Squamish, BC - home to some the best bouldering and granite routes in the world. RocTrip is quickly becoming the premiere global rock climbing event, combining top climbers and the general public in a fun, laidback atmosphere. Where else can you hang out, climb and party with elite climbers the likes of Frederic Nicole, Liv Sansoz, Chris Sharma and Dave Graham, to name only a few? The approximately 500 people who attended RocTrip BC were treated to an amazing event that demonstrates the best that climbing and the climbing community have to offer.

Special thanks go out to the sponsors and supporters of this year's RocTrip, without whom RocTrip never would have happened: La Sportiva, Prana, Climbing Magazine, Entreprises, Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company, New England Ropes, Flashed Climbing, Red Bull, Squamish Rock Guides, MEC, Valhalla Pure Outfitters, Starbucks, the District of Squamish, BC Ministry of Forests, BC Parks and Squamish Search & Rescue.

Local volunteers were crucial to the success of RocTrip. Members of the Access Society really came through: putting in the long hours necessary to make sure the event went off smoothly.

The money raised from this year's event will go to benefit the Climbers' Access Society of BC and the Land Conservancy of BC, two organizations crucial to the future of climbing in the area.

The Squamish RocTrip video is now available for download!

• Day 1 - Volunteer day
• Day 2 - Flash climbing contest
• Day 3 - Bouldering fest
• Final results

Day 1 - Volunteer day

To kick-off this year's RocTrip, MEC sponsored a trail maintenance day. About 50 volunteers got their hands dirty working on the trails that wind through the Grand Wall boulders. They spread tons of gravel on the main paths, cleared fallen trees and improved some of the more used trails in the area. This and other conservation efforts are essential for the continuing access of climbers to Squamish.

The day ended with beer and burgers for all the volunteers at the Howe Sound Brewery followed by a slide show/movie by Canada's own Scott Milton on his travels in South Africa and other far-flung climbing destinations. The ambiance was mellow - as climbers and volunteers prepared for a full weekend of climbing and bouldering.

Day 2 - Flash climbing contest

We lucked out: light morning clouds gave way to splitter blue skies. Who says it rains a lot in BC? Climbers arrived early and warmed up on the Grand Wall boulders before heading to the competition.

The rules for the Invitational Flash Climbing Contest were relatively straight forward. Athletes were given a selection of routes to climb in the area around the Cacomdemon Boulder and in Cheakamus Canyon. The routes weren't easy. The range for men was 12d to 14c and 12a to 14c for women. Up to a certain grade (14a for men, 13a for women), they weren't allowed to work the routes - if they fell, they had to belowered to the ground and start again. Points were given on the basis of the route's difficulty and how many competitors completed it.

Chris Sharma and Sonny Trotter spent most of the day working on Sharma's project on the Cacomdemon Boulder, which starts on a super thin slab followed by a long, very overhanging, sloping rail. They were making progress, but the route didn't see an ascent. Dave Graham sent Force of Habit (12d), Neurotica (13b) and got Young Blood (13b) on his first try. Gerome Pouvreau and Nick Sagar both sent Young Blood. Gérôme and his compatriot, Jérome Meyer, both quickly sent Force of Habit and Neurotica.

Meanwhile, over at Cheakamus Canyon , Steve McClure from the UK and Said Belhaj from Sweden were the masters of the Big Show. Steve sent Patience (14a) on his second try, making it look like it was 5.6. Said hiked Freewill (13c) and almost got Patience before falling at the final headwall. Harry Berger got in the fray too, sending several 12s. Lynn Hill flashed Face the Music (12a) and Cut to the Chase (12c) and sent The Fleeing Heifer (12c) after several tries.

The Open event climbers spent the day on a selection of 50 routes ranging from 10c to 13c. Most of the climbers focused on the Forgotten Wall - with the locals really shining.

Another happening at RocTrip were the very popular clinics. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity to learn to bouldering techniques from Frederic Nicole and Scott Milton. Or learn crack climbing and crucial rescue techniques from Squamish area guides. The clinics were a hit and are sure to be a fixture on future RocTrips.

To get things warmed up for that evening's party, Timmy O'Neill put on one of his trademark slideshows. His shows aren't to be missed and if you've seen one, you know that nothing's sacred in Timmy's World. He also showed his Indian Creek primer, Paralellojams to the capacity audience. During his presentation, he raffled, tossed and had people do stupid human tricks for hundreds of dollars worth of prizes.

Immediately following Timmy's show, the real party got underway - a party like Squamish has never seen before. Petzl's own DJ LaFouche brought the French Touch to Howe Sound Brewery, with VJ Guillaume mixing images from the day's climbing. As soon as the music started, the packed crowd exploded into a mass of moving bodies. As if things couldn't get any better, the many-talented Said busted out his didgeridoo, drums and other instruments to bring the house down with some world sounds. Timmy eventually joined the mix with his own percussion expertise. The 2am last-call came too soon that night as climbers stumbled out of the pub to get some shut-eye and ready themselves for Day 3.^

Day 3 - Bouldering fest

The day started slowly with people recovering from the previous night's festivities. Blue skies graced us again. The Grand Wall boulder field is a magical place: enormous trees shelter an expansive jumble of moss-covered boulders under the shadow of the Chief. It's a boulderer's delight: thin slabs, steep jug hauls, crimpfests and inconceivable sloper problems.

A handful of difficult problems were chosen for the invitational athletes: mostly projects for the men and V7-V11 for the women. Flashed Climbing supplied the crash pads for many of the problems.

Chris Sharma was the only male to send any of the selected men's problems - Lucky Charms (V11). The rest of the guys just enjoyed themselves on the multitude of high quality boulders in the area. This highlights the nature of this event: while it's nominally a competition, at its core, RocTrip is a gathering where people come to have fun and climb together.

But the sports action was really with the women. American Lisa Rands and Squamish local Thomasina Pidgeon were neck and neck in the women's elite category. Among the problems Lisa sent were: Double 0 (V10), Worm World Cave (V9), ATD (V7), No Troblems (V10) and Ride the Lightening (V8) Not bad for a day's work. Thomasina was just behind, and the organizers extended the regulation time limit because the crowd of spectators was having so much fun watching the two battle it out.

The Open Bouldering event saw some strong climbers come out of the woodwork. Melissa Lacasse, Paul Robinson and Neil Dyer all had very impressive score cards.

After the closing bell, exhausted athletes and spectators converged once again on the Howe Sound Brewery for some cold ones and the awards ceremony. Awards were given out, volunteers and sponsors were thanked and RocTrip was brought to a close.

Once again RocTrip fulfilled its promise: a fun time with fun people at a fun area. Much more than just a competition, RocTrip is gathering - an event and a state of mind where people from all over the world can get together and do the one thing we all love: climb.

Be on the look out for the next RocTrip...^

Final results

^

© Petzl - Photos John Evans