The pleasure of climbing. On
and on. Completing thirty pitches, that’s great, because after a while you don’t look
at the topo any more. You just say to yourself at that point: we’re half way and that’s
all.
Get over a step, a second one, then a third. Climb up a section of slabs, cross a forest of
ribs, navigate another obstacle… Hesitate in face of an overhang, think of those who were
the first to pass by there, and discover, just alongside, a hidden crack. Climb on the knife edge
where others have taken a lower ledge. Dance on those spikes of granite on rock that cuts like
a knife. Straddling the western Salbitschijen arete is the sheer pleasure of freedom. It’s
like tracing a garland around this marvellous mountain. The only weakness: not wanting all this
to stop. Even worse: not wanting to climb down again once you have reached the peak. So you can
stay on there, a little bit more, in the middle of the world.
Departure:
Salbithütte,
near to Göscheneralp Tal.
Difficulty:
TD, 6b max. A sustained route with many pitches
at 5c/6a.
Height: 500m.
Time of year:
summer, early autumn.
Time: 6 to 7 hours.
Equipment:
take along a set of nuts. Map: national map of Switzerland 1/25,000, no. 1211, “Meiental”.
GET
THE WHOLE STORY FROM:
See the topo «Schweiz Plaisir», by Jürg von Kanel, published by Filidor.And also
the Alpine Club guide, “Bernese Oberland & Salbitschijen”.

Copyright : photos Mario Colonel - texte Jocelyn Chavy