THE ECRINS MASSIF, FRANCE
LA MEIJE
THE PROMONTOIRE ARETE AND CROSSING THE ARETES
“La Meije” is one
of those peaks that dominate all the others, even the few really higher ones in the Alps. It makes
you dream even if you haven’t climbed it. As back in the time of pioneers Gaspard and the
young Boileau, “la Meije” is still a magnet, a lover whose beauty you can’t wait
to discover (again).
Clean sculpted orange granite. A glacier lost in the sky. Climbs that bear celebrated, poetic names
(the “Cheval Rouge” or Red Horse). Serrated aretes that look as if they are ready to
topple over into the abyss. On which tight rope walkers re-invent weightlessness. Altitude, which
tires you yet makes you drunk. The feeling of freedom, freedom to play with the elements, up in the
sky rather than on earth.
Mountaineering is simply the art of elegantly brushing against the clouds.Crossing “La Meije” was
achieved more than a century ago and is the prime example of traverse routes.
KEY INFORMATION
First climbed by:
E. Boileau de Castelnau with Gaspard father and son for the Promontoire arete in 1877. J.-H. Gibson
with U. Almer and F. Boss for the first arete crossing (from West to East) in 1891.
Equipment:
take crampons and ice axe, a small set of nuts and an abseil rope.
Map: IGN Top 25 no. 3436 ET, 1/25,000
GET THE FULL STORY FROM:
“Guide du Haut-Dauphiné, Massif des Ecrins”(Guide of the High Dauphiné, the
Ecrins Massif), volume 1, by François Labande, published by Envol, 1995 (in French).
Departure:
The Promontoire refuge, 3,082 m.
Difficulty:
The Promontoire arete is classed AD, but the whole climb including crossing the aretes is worth
a D.
Height:
nearly 900 metres for the Promontoire arete, and around 200m for the arete crossing.
Time of year: July to September.
Time: two days
