Petzl Rock Trip 2011. Getu valley. There must be more
limestone here than the whole of the UK
put together! But the really crazy thing is the variation in styles. There just
seems to be everything plus more other styles you didn’t know existed. The
world of slopers was totally crazy, but pretty close to on-sight hell,
certainly for me anyway. And also not red-point heaven either requiring large
biceps and shoulders that God forgot to give me.
A perfect mountain
Bits of rock can look pretty much the same, it doesn’t
matter where you are in the world. Big features, crazy formations, caves,
pinnacles, whatever; up close and pulling hard, rock is rock. In a place like China
you need to escape the system and explore the view, just to know where you are,
or you might as well have stayed home!
Gabriele Moroni sends Coup de Bambou - 9a - just after the Petzl RocTrip !
Gabriele Moroni our italian team athlete, has finally redpointed the route named "Coup de Bambou" (9a), one of the hardest picthes in the Great Arch! Here are some words from his personnal blog :
F.A de La taupe boxeuse 8c+
Hier, après de nombreux essais à tomber dans la première partie d'un
projet appelé "la taupe boxeuse" à St Ange (au dessus de Grenoble), je
clippais enfin la chaîne.
Cette voie cotée 8c+ et équipée par Quentin Chastagnier, se décompose en 3 parties: Une première partie très bloc avec des mouvements explosifs sur prises plates, puis une bonne résistance sur petites prises et décontractions foireuses et enfin une dernière section bloc avec des mouvements aléatoires.
Acclimatisation comes to its end
The time of acclimatisation comes to ist end. Since two weeks I am back
to Khumbu Valley. The weather is quite instable. Strong winds in the
altitude and wet air from the south. I am happy. We have installed
ourselves mostly in Lobouche. The Eco
Lodge gives us the perfect conditions at an altitutde of 4950 meters to
get acclimatized. It was a good decision to come here. We have a bed to
sleep: I will sleep long enough in a tent. To get used to the height
this is an important time. You can not shorten it.
After 4 days in Zangmu we leave toward Everest basecamp. From Tingri we
first take the same way like to Cho Oyu. After 15 minutes the driver
turns left. Now we are definitively on the way to the Everest. The
basecamp is somehow surreal. The first thing what strikes me was the
tent of Kari Kobler. A yellow dome in the middle of a field of stones
Petzl RocTrip: fuori dalla pioggia e dentro il Grande Arco
Come preannunciato nella cerimonia di apertura del Petz RocTrip, il Grande Arco era stato individuato dalla maggior parte degli atleti del Team Petzl come location per la giornata di giovedì 24 ottobre. Un gruppetto di vie dall'8b (5.13d) al 9a (5.14d) sulla sinistra della grotta cattura la loro attenzione.