Gabriele Moroni our italian team athlete, has finally redpointed the route named "Coup de Bambou" (9a), one of the hardest picthes in the Great Arch! Here are some words from his personnal blog :
Gabriele Moroni : "First day I climb on easier stuffs and learn the style. I decide to attack on my second day! Already on my first try I'm able to do all the moves... as I thought the
bottom part suits well my climbing... about 30° steep wall, big but
precise moves, pinches, edges and a few balls features! And of course
very bouldery! Second part is pretty hard for me, less steep,not so hard moves but alot
of them and very pumpy with slopers,bad footholds and a few kneebars...
basically all my weak points!! After a couple of days of work with all the homies,
Dave,Enzo,Mike,Jon,Gerome etc I have found all the sequences that work
for me and I have the top part figured out pretty well! I start to feel
ready for some serious links! One day I fall at the last move of the first part and I know It could go
in the next tries but I am running out days... Two more to be precise. So I decide to rest one and go crush mode on the last one!"
> Read the full story on his personnal blog <
Photo Beau Kahler 5.10
