GER

Alexander Huber

Alex Huber - photo © Sam Bié
  • 30 December 1968
  • Berchtesgaden (Bayern, Germany)
  • Physics
  • Mountain guide, professional mountaineer
  • 1993

I caught the bug for extreme mountaineering
«When my brother and I were kids our parents introduced us to the mountains and to mountaineering. My father, well known in the 1960s for his fast ascents of the North Face of Les Droites, passed on to us his passion for extreme mountaineering. My home – with my family and friends – is the foundation of my life. What is important is to have integrity in whatever situation life presents. Without this solid foundation as a springboard, I would not be able to venture off in new directions. This is why I have been working with most of my sponsors for more than 15 years. In 1997, I received a Master’s degree in Physics at the University of Munich. This education also served to strengthen my foundation as a climber.»

picto plus Major ascents

Mountaineering
- Triangel (Austria) «Om» (9a) first ascent, 1992
- Schleier (Austria) «Weisse Rose» (9a) first ascent, 1994
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «Salathe» (5.13b) first free ascent, 1995
- Schleier (first ascent) «Open Air» (9a+) first ascent, 1996
- Latok II (Karakorum, Pakistan) «Tsering Mosong» (7108 m / VII+ / A3+) first ascent, 1997    
- Cho Oyu (Himalaya, Nepal and China) West Face (8201 m), 1998
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «El Nino» (5.13b) first ascent, 1998
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «Free Rider» (5.12d) first free ascent, 1998
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «Golden Gate» (5.13a) first ascent, 2000
- Cima Ovest (Dolomites, Italy) «Bellavista» (8c) first free ascent, 2001
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «El Corazon» (5.13b) first ascent, 2001
- Cerro Torre (Patagonia, Argentina) «Compressor Route» (V/A1) 2002
- Fitz Roy (Patagonia, Argentina) «Franco-Argentina» (6b) free ascent, 2002
- Cerro Standhardt (Patagonia, Argentina) «Exocet» (6a/90°) winter ascent, 2002
- Cima Grande (Dolomites, Italy) Direttissima (7a+) first free solo ascent, 2002
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «Zodiac» (5.13d) first free ascent, 2003
- Schleier (Austria) «Kommunist» (8b+) first free solo ascent, 2004
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «Zodiac» speed record in 1 hour 51 min, 2004
- Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc range, France) «Voie Petit» (8b) first free ascent, 2005
- Desmochada (Patagonia) «Golden Eagle» (5.11/A1) first ascent, 2006
- Dent du Geant (Mont Blanc range, Italy) South Face (6c) first free solo ascent, 2006
- Cima Ovest (Dolomites, Italy) «Pan Aroma» (8c) first ascent, 2007
- El Capitan (Yosemite, California, USA) «The Nose» (5.9/A1) speed record in 2 hours 45 min, 2007
- La Silla (Patagonia) West Face (5.11/A1) first ascent, 2008
- Sonnwand (Tyrol, Austria) «Feuertaufe» (8b+) first ascent, 2008
- Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc range, France) «Swiss route» (6b) first free solo ascent, 2008
- Schüsselkarspitze (Alps, Germany) «Locker vom Hocker» (7a) first free solo ascent, 2008
- Holtanna (Antarctica) West Face (5.10+/A4) first ascent, 2008
- Holtanna (Antarctica) North Pillar (5.10) first ascent / first free ascent, 2008
- Ulvetanna (Antarctica) Northwest Pillar (5.11a/A2) first ascent, 2008
- Nameless Tower (Pakistan) «Eternal Flame» (6251 m / 5.13a) first free ascent, 2009

picto rss Other informations

Books
- The Wall (German, English) 1999.
- Yosemite (German, English, Spanish) 2002.
- Drei Zinnen (German, Spanish, Italian) 2002.
- Senkrechte Horizonte (German) 2005.
- The Mountain inside me (German, English, Italian) 2008.
 
Website
www.huberbuam.de

picto photo Photos

picto video Videos

Alex Huber - photo © Sam Bié