Acclimatisation comes to its end
The time of acclimatisation comes to ist end. Since two weeks I am back
to Khumbu Valley. The weather is quite instable. Strong winds in the
altitude and wet air from the south. I am happy. We have installed
ourselves mostly in Lobouche. The Eco
Lodge gives us the perfect conditions at an altitutde of 4950 meters to
get acclimatized. It was a good decision to come here. We have a bed to
sleep: I will sleep long enough in a tent. To get used to the height
this is an important time. You can not shorten it.
After 4 days in Zangmu we leave toward Everest basecamp. From Tingri we
first take the same way like to Cho Oyu. After 15 minutes the driver
turns left. Now we are definitively on the way to the Everest. The
basecamp is somehow surreal. The first thing what strikes me was the
tent of Kari Kobler. A yellow dome in the middle of a field of stones
Petzl RocTrip Getu: The Place to BeThe trip was long for many, short for others. Some braved a 45-hour non-stop voyage from all over the world, facing delayed flights, long security lines, cramped airplanes, missed connections and finishing with a mountainous 5-hour bus ride. For others, it was a simple question of hopping in the car and heading to the site of the 2011 Petzl RocTrip in Getu, China.
Petzl RocTrip China : Where there's a will (and strong arms), there's a way
In the early hours of Sunday, October 30, one of the greatest Petzl RocTrips ever came to an end. Here in the Getu valley, the last few days have witnessed the very best of rock climbing, community sharing and entertainment.
Yesterday at the great Arch, above the eyes of hundreds of spectators, Dani "La Machina" Andrada sent all the pitches of his huge project, "Corazon de Ensueno". To complete this feat he was belayed all the way by Chris Sharma.
Petzl RocTrip: Out of the Rain and into the Great Arch
As the official beginning of Petz RocTrip neared, the great arch remained on Tuesday, October 24, the venue of choice for most of the Petzl Team athletes. A cluster of routes ranging from 8b (5.13d) to 9a (5.14d) on the left-hand side of the arch drew the most attention. Here, Sasha DiGiulian, Nina Caprez, Jon Cardwell, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Emily Harrington, Enzo Oddo, and others took turns working out the technical moves on slopey, rice bowl-shaped holds.
F.A de La taupe boxeuse 8c+
Hier, après de nombreux essais à tomber dans la première partie d'un
projet appelé "la taupe boxeuse" à St Ange (au dessus de Grenoble), je
clippais enfin la chaîne.
Cette voie cotée 8c+ et équipée par Quentin Chastagnier, se décompose en 3 parties: Une première partie très bloc avec des mouvements explosifs sur prises plates, puis une bonne résistance sur petites prises et décontractions foireuses et enfin une dernière section bloc avec des mouvements aléatoires.
Lucky for us this is such a good cliff, as we don’t have
that many world class sport venues. This isn’t Spain.
But we do have a few. This is the most important confirmation Adam Ondra has
made, the fact that he’s returned for a second week means he must like it here,
after all, he could go anywhere in the world for sure.
The Quarry Man
The Quarry Man
This route is the stuff of legends! And climbed by the
legend Johnny Dawes. Blasted into fame in the film Stone Monkey with a Zappa
sound track that elevated the route above every other in the quarries. Even the
simple name blatantly indicates that this isn’t just another slab or wall. This
is THE masterpiece, climbing out from the biggest hole via the biggest