We have become aware of a prohibited and dangerous use of the QUICKFIX adjustable strap.
Reports from the field and press photos alerted us that the QUICKFIX is being used as a lanyard for attachment to rappel stations. For your safety, remember that the QUICKFIX is designed only for positioning in aid climbing. In this case, the climber must be protected by a dynamic rope. Warning: the QUICKFIX does not protect against falls.
It must not be used as a lanyard (its strength is only 150 daN, or about 150 kg).
The strength of a lanyard must be at least 2200 daN, or about 2200 kg. Some climbers position themselves at the belay using their QUICKFIX, but in this case they must also be attached to the belay with the rope. Petzl recommends against this usage because eventually you may forget to attach yourself with the rope. Do not use the QUICKFIX on rappel.
To better illustrate this point, we did the following test:
- 80 cm fall onto a QUICKFIX strap adjusted to 80 cm.
- 80-kilo dummy.
- QUICKFIX strap mounted on a SAMA harness (girth hitched through the tie-in points).
- Result: clean break of the strap at the buckle (no slippage).