yet another newly developed crag on the island, somewhere between Pertxas and Lluc.

Mallorca has been on the climbing radar for ages. A few years ago the psicobloc (dws) sceen took of bigtime with Miguel Riera, one of the local climbers, as the main man in developing the islands potential. Even friends of mine who don't climb ask me if I've ever done any "psicobloc"??? I thought -"wow, this genre really seemes to be in fashion right now, as even non-climbers know of it!". I'd done some in France but Mallorca seemed to be top notch for this kind of activity. So on my way here I thought that at least some time would be used to go solo above the ocean. I finally ended up not doing one single psico climb. Why you might ask? Because the sportclimbing is just so damn good aswell+the locals didn't seeme too psyched. I got a date with Miguel but we went to a bar insted of climbing... 

"Commando Madrid", superclassic 8b i Pertxas.

Since over 10 years back I've read some articles about climbing in Mallorcs or for example Christian Griffith doing some of his best on-sights here. In an old portrait of Yuji (Hirayama) in the french magazine Grimper he has Mallorca as his absolute favourite area. Routenames like "Commando Madrid" and "Football Fan" stuck to my mind (allthought I'm everything but a football fan...) As allways with place you'd thought about going to for along time its something extra to finally arrive there. And then do those, at least in your mind, mythical routes...

tufa fest on "Mr Magoo", 8a+, Gorg Blau.

And as allways, there is more there than you knew of before arriving. Dani, who has spent alot of time here, gave me some tips. But it was finally with the locals, that I got the real treat. Big thanks especially to Pep Sabater who MADE this trip happen for 2 weeks.

Now we are of again. Take the plane back to the mainland, Barcelona -hope the car is still where we left it! Maybe have time for some music in Barca tonight, pic up my friend Anders "Vinränk" Lans and then probably move towards la France once more. The endless voyage continues...

                                           with my boys Juan and Pep in Fragel.