Update : download the Getu valley climbing guide book.
The layout of the climbing areas at Getu is very simple. As you drive into the Getu River valley you’ll find the five sport climbing areas of Zone A on the left side of the river (moving downstream). On the right side of the river at about the same level you’ll find Zone B with six sport climbing areas and two sectors of multi-pitch climbing. Zone C is located at the end of the paved road inside the park itself. That’s where you’ll find the Big Arch and the routes in that sector, which include six areas of sport climbing and six multi-pitch routes.
Routes by grade :
- 7 routes in the 4,
- 22 routes in the 5,
- 100 routes in the 6,
- 83 routes in the 7,
- 8 routes in the 8,
- 1 route in the 9 et 9 projetcs.
This zone is located on the left bank of the Getu River (same side as the road). It includes the crags that are closest to the road and is also one of the prettiest areas at Gétû.
Fish Crack (+ Secret Garden). Located just above an abandoned, but still intact, bamboo farming village, this 35-meter, vertical wall of orange limestone is exceptionally beautiful with routes concentrated primarily in the 6c to 7c range. At the base of the crag you’ll find poetic and philosophical calligraphy as well as paintings, which give the area a special energy. Please take care to protect them. 18 routes, 6b to 8a.
Left of Red. One of the first crags equipped in 2008 by the guide Olivier Balma (the man who pioneered climbing in Gétû) and the Chinese trainees from the CMDI (Chinese Mountain Development Institute). The crag includes even routes of 6a/6a+ with an easier pitch to the left and a harder one to the right that’s around 6c. According to Olivier, there is still plenty of potential for new routes in this area.
WaWan's Cave. This small, well-lit cave with ocher-colored walls has been dedicated to ‘KOB’, the King of Baijo. Located in the middle of the terraced rice fields (please respect the fields), WaWan’s Cave has very steep routes on the left that aren’t super difficult thanks to the abundance of features. On the right is a steep, crimper wall of a different style that is a notch easier. In total, there are nine routes from 6b to 7b+, 12 quickdraws max.
Rastaman Crack. A crag created by Stéphane Husson who spent fifteen solitary and mysterious days on it. Back at the hotel each night, his smile made us realize there was something very special happening there. Rastaman Crack features nine routes between 5c+ and 6c+ on steep, featured rock that has been created by the hands of Rasta and his servant. It is a small masterpiece that should not to be missed.
Oliver's Crack. At only 50 meters from the road this 30-meter prominence must have been highly intriguing to Olivier Blama’s imagination. He equipped the wall in 2008 with 12 routes between 6b and 7c, many of which proudly wear their three-star credentials. This crag, which is a bit of a mixture of Fish Crack (more featured) and WaWan’s Cave (quite steep), promises some nice battles in front of the curious stares of the locals passing by on the road.
To reach Zone B you need to cross the river and hike up the single track for less than 15 minutes (oh my God!) before reaching the big walls of Pussa Yan and CMDI Wall. Lovers of multi-pitch routes, you have arrived. And if this place doesn’t scratch what’s itching you then don’t worry, there is plenty more to come!
Pussa Yan. Literally translated, Pussa Yan means "Mother superior protector". The name was given to this 120-meter wall of steep, orange rock by the local villagers who were inspired by its protective character. In April 2011, Daniel Dulac and Jean-Luc Jeunet opened a six-pitch route called Le Casse-Tête Chinois (6c/7a) and there’s no doubt that other routes will soon be added.
White Cliff. Located at the foot of CMDI Wall, this steep little wall with pockets and crimps was equipped by Olivier Balma and his trainees. It features 12 very beautiful and inspiring routes from 5c to 7a.
CMDI Wall. Five 150- to 200-meter, multi-pitch routes from four to seven pitches long between 5c and 7b+. This magnificent wall is dedicated to the Chinese mountain guides school (CMDI), which was co-founded and supervised by Olivier Balma. Here again, Daniel Dulac has left his mark and it will be interesting to hear what those who try Captain Hook have to say.
CMDI cracks. Three sport climbs totaling ten pitches on heavily-featured grey rock that is sometimes a bit bushy. This corner, which still has loads of potential, is where RocTrippers will gain a totally different perspective on the place.
Banyiang's Cave. This cave is located just above the village of Banyiang and, with 19 routes between 6c and 8b+, is one of the two temples of hardcore climbing in Zone B. Also called Devil’s Cave by the locals, the heavy concentration of routes between 7+ and 8+ are likely to make you feel like you’ve met the devil himself. Expect diverse rock and plenty of atmosphere.
Lazy Dragon's Cave. Just a few steps from the village of Gétû this last sector in Zone B, where the Gétû River disappears underground, provides a double bonus. On the right bank there is a wall of white cavities, steep and smooth, where nine pitches and some very technical variations between 7a and 8b are surrounded by a big cave atmosphere. This wall was opened by the Spanish team of Dani Andrada, Toni Arbonès, Andony Perez and Oliver Lavoisey. On the left bank, Jean-Luc Jeunet and an international team have pioneered a hanging, well-lit sector with moderate routes mostly between 6c and 7a.
ZONE C - BIG ARCH
This is the highlight of the show. For those who, after reading everything above, are still not convinced of the total awesomeness of Gétû, this is what will convince even the most skeptical among you: it could accurately be described as a ‘temple of climbing’. Located inside the park, the Big Arch and its satellite sectors include 120 pitches from 5c to 9a, many of which are still virgin. Extraordinary atmosphere and plenty of exposure are guaranteed for all levels.
Flag. Alongside a route of prehistoric artificial holds, Andy Long and Gavin Simonds along with Marcos Costa, have established four long and enjoyable routes: average difficulty of 6b+.
Buddha Cave. Eleven difficult, stunningly beautiful pitches between 7a+ and 8c have been established at both entrances to the cave. Be careful not to knock rocks off onto the shining statue of Buddha.
School Time. Just before the entrance to the Big Arch, you’ll find six routes on a grey, nicely-featured slabs that grade 6 climbers will totally love.
Big Arch Left side. Located inside the tunnel you’ll find a set of pitches from the entrance to the exit on strange, white, huecos that are a bit chalky. This arch provides a unique atmosphere and amazing climbing that is both physical and technical at the same time. Those who can keep cool when holds are sometimes a bit uncertain are going to love this. 20 pitches from 5c to 9a!
Big Arch Right side. On the opposite side of the arch from the exit to the entrance is a new sector with all levels of climbing on rock that is just as amazing. You absolutely have to try this area especially since the ticket is not too expensive. 22 pitches from 6a to 8a.
Big Arch Long Route. Without leading you astray, we believe it’s safe to say that Gétû is the Chinese definition of the word: A M A Z I N G. Six difficult, you could even say extreme, multi-pitch routes, some of the most diverse and difficult in the world, all of which are masterpieces that have been opened by virtuosos:
- Nihao Wokepa! (4 pitches up to 8a) by Toni Arbonès and Marcos Costa
- Corazon de Ensueno (7 pitches up to 8b+) by Daniel Andrada
- Lost in Translation (4 pitches up to 8a) by Stéphanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit
- The Brazilian Fuse (4 pitches up to 7b) by Yann Ghesquier and Tom Collet
- Dos Forasteros en la Selva (4 pitches up to 6c+) by Andony Perez and Oliver Lavoisey
- La Voie du Milieu (8 pitches up to 8b+) by Daniel Dulac
Pictures of climbing at Gétû