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19th Piolets d'Or : April 13-16 2011 in Chamonix and Courmayeur

19th Piolets d'Or : April 13-16 2011 in Chamonix and Courmayeur

The annual international celebration of modern alpinism

14/04/2011 - In the field Read more

Acclimatisation comes to its end

The time of acclimatisation comes to ist end. Since two weeks I am back
to Khumbu Valley. The weather is quite instable. Strong winds in the
altitude and wet air from the south. I am happy. We have installed
ourselves mostly in Lobouche. The Eco
Lodge gives us the perfect conditions at an altitutde of 4950 meters to
get acclimatized. It was a good decision to come here. We have a bed to
sleep: I will sleep long enough in a tent. To get used to the height
this is an important time. You can not shorten it.

05/04/2011 - In the field Read more

A tribute to Guy Lacelle

A tribute to Guy Lacelle

This film commemorates the life of Guy Lacelle, who was regarded as one of the world's leading ice climbers. In 2009, at the age of 54, Lacelle was killed by an avalanche in Bozeman, Montana. A pioneer in the ice climbing world, Lacelle was the first to show what can be done on vertical ice and established some of the most difficult ice climbs in the world.

04/04/2011 - In the field Read more

new movie: Bestcoast Riot -climbing on the bestcoast with Dani Andrada & Said Belhaj

Here it is finally, filmed during 10 days last summer on the west coast of Sweden. A movie by Jesper Östlund & Martin Arvidson

03/04/2011 - In the field Read more

Labor of love: La Grave mountain risk patrollers, guardians of Freedom

Labor of love: La Grave mountain risk patrollers, guardians of Freedom

Friday, 11 February 2011, 2:00 p.m., Crête du Peyrou d'Aval, around 2800 meters high. Under a beautiful blue sky, on a ridge that delineates the western horizon above the refuge Chancel from the classic ski routes of the Valleys of the Meije, two figures stand out. When standing still they seem to blend in with this immense, wild and incredibly beautiful mountain.

28/03/2011 - In the field Read more

The Zanskar Odyssey: High Alpine Bouldering in the Hidden Himalayas - PART 3/3

The Zanskar Odyssey: High Alpine Bouldering in the Hidden Himalayas - PART 3/3

This past fall, Colorado climbers Pete Takeda, Abbey Smith, Jason Kehl and Mick Follari journeyed to that lofty crossroads where continents meet, ancient cultures mingle, and great religions clash — the kingdom of Zanskar in the Indian Himalayas. They were looking for adventure, a fresh perspective, and the most aesthetic boulders in the world's greatest mountain range. It's a postmodern blend of traditional expedition climbing and new school bouldering, it's a search for the highest hardest climbing moves in the world.

24/03/2011 - In the field Read more

Pangaea: seven young people selected for North Pole expedition with Mike Horn

Pangaea: seven young people selected for North Pole expedition with Mike Horn

Among all the applicants from around the world, the sixteen candidates that were selected based on their applications met at Chateau d'Oex, Switzerland on 13 February 2011 for the selection camp. Their objective: to determine the team of explorers that will go to the North Pole in May 2011.

21/03/2011 - In the field Read more

Story of an ascent of the Harlin Direttissima on the north face of the Eiger

Story of an ascent of the Harlin Direttissima on the north face of the Eiger

From January 30 to February 5, 2011, Patrice Glairon-rappaz, Paulo Robach and Cédric Perillat attempted to climb the Harlin Direttissima on the north face of the Eiger. Cédric tell us about their adventure: "It was a major effort in the perspective that the strong American-British-German team committed themselves to the first ascent of the ‘Harlin Direttissima' from February 23 to March 25, 1966 making numerous attempts and using hundreds of metres of fixed rope."

21/03/2011 - In the field Read more

News from Nepal

Arrived in Nepal I feel like being in an other world. Chaotic on one side, enriching for us Europeans on the other side. Time data here are relative.

21/03/2011 - In the field Read more

The Zanskar Odyssey: High Alpine Bouldering in the Hidden Himalayas - PART 2/3

The Zanskar Odyssey: High Alpine Bouldering in the Hidden Himalayas - PART 2/3

This past fall, Colorado climbers Pete Takeda, Abbey Smith, Jason Kehl and Mick Follari journeyed to that lofty crossroads where continents meet, ancient cultures mingle, and great religions clash — the kingdom of Zanskar in the Indian Himalayas. They were looking for adventure, a fresh perspective, and the most aesthetic boulders in the world's greatest mountain range. It's a postmodern blend of traditional expedition climbing and new school bouldering, it's a search for the highest hardest climbing moves in the world.

15/03/2011 - In the field Read more