Petzl RocTrip China : Where there's a will (and strong arms), there's a wayIn the early hours of Sunday, October 30, one of the greatest Petzl RocTrips ever came to an end. Here in the Getu valley, the last few days have witnessed the very best of rock climbing, community sharing and entertainment. Yesterday at the great Arch, above the eyes of hundreds of spectators, Dani "La Machina" Andrada sent all the pitches of his huge project, "Corazon de Ensueno". To complete this feat he was belayed all the way by Chris Sharma.
Petzl RocTrip: Out of the Rain and into the Great ArchAs the official beginning of Petz RocTrip neared, the great arch remained on Tuesday, October 24, the venue of choice for most of the Petzl Team athletes. A cluster of routes ranging from 8b (5.13d) to 9a (5.14d) on the left-hand side of the arch drew the most attention. Here, Sasha DiGiulian, Nina Caprez, Jon Cardwell, Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Emily Harrington, Enzo Oddo, and others took turns working out the technical moves on slopey, rice bowl-shaped holds.
Banyangs CavePetzl Rock Trip 2011. Getu valley. There must be more
limestone here than the whole of the UK
put together! But the really crazy thing is the variation in styles. There just
seems to be everything plus more other styles you didn’t know existed. The
world of slopers was totally crazy, but pretty close to on-sight hell,
certainly for me anyway. And also not red-point heaven either requiring large
biceps and shoulders that God forgot to give me.
A perfect mountainBits of rock can look pretty much the same, it doesn’t
matter where you are in the world. Big features, crazy formations, caves,
pinnacles, whatever; up close and pulling hard, rock is rock. In a place like China
you need to escape the system and explore the view, just to know where you are,
or you might as well have stayed home!
Petzl RocTrip Getu: The Place to BeThe trip was long for many, short for others. Some braved a 45-hour non-stop voyage from all over the world, facing delayed flights, long security lines, cramped airplanes, missed connections and finishing with a mountainous 5-hour bus ride. For others, it was a simple question of hopping in the car and heading to the site of the 2011 Petzl RocTrip in Getu, China.
Petzl RocTrip 2011: download the guide bookDownload the climbing guide book of the Getu valley, where the Petzl RocTrip China will take place from October 26 - 30, 2011. The guide book is also a roadbook, as it contains the program of the 5 days, and some usefull tips about the valley. The guide book is in english and chinese versions.
Newly modified versions of the NOMIC and ERGO ice axes are availableNewly modified versions of the NOMIC and ERGO ice axes are available and currently being shipped to all Petzl distributors.
The new versions are for sale and can also be exchanged with the 2010 versions of the NOMIC and ERGO with serial numbers between 10208 and 10329. See the information from 21 December 2010.
F.A de La taupe boxeuse 8c+Hier, après de nombreux essais à tomber dans la première partie d'un
projet appelé "la taupe boxeuse" à St Ange (au dessus de Grenoble), je
clippais enfin la chaîne. Cette voie cotée 8c+ et équipée par Quentin Chastagnier, se décompose en 3 parties: Une première partie très bloc avec des mouvements explosifs sur prises plates, puis une bonne résistance sur petites prises et décontractions foireuses et enfin une dernière section bloc avec des mouvements aléatoires.