Video: Arnaud Petit sends "Black Bean" (8b/65m) on trad gear

Arnaud Petit returns with the performance of the summer: a trad ascent at Céüse! His send of Black Bean (8b / 65m) was filmed by Bertrand Delapierre and photographed by Thomas Vialletet.
 

Arnaud Petit sends "Black Bean" 8b/65m on trad climbing

" Climbing the Biographie wall and reaching the plateau of Céüse using my own protection has become an obsession for me this spring. I prepared for a whole month: first looking for gear placements and hoping there were enough, then testing them and finally choosing a minimal rack that would not be too heavy.

Then came the physical and mental training for the sections where I absolutely could not fall because not all of the gear was 100% and there were times when I was 15 meters above my last piece. And also because Black Bean, the 8b 65-meter line (Bruno Clément) is not an easy route for me. To feel ready for the try and then going for it. Taking the first step, as always, is definitely the hardest part.

But why climb a route that is bolted and that you have already climbed?

For the fun of it. To know the magic of rediscovering a line in its natural state, to work only with what the rock has to offer, to get stoked on a tiny crimp that I had never seen before. The route had become something else and I felt like taking a new trip on a crag I have known for 20 years. It’s pretty cool that several different approaches can coexist on the same route. "
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

VIDEO - Arnaud Petit sends "Black Bean" (8b/65m)

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Black Bean topo - 8b / 65m - with natural protection

Topo "Black Bean" - 8b/65m - "trad version"

 
 
 

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Arnaud Petit sends "Black Bean" 8b/65m on trad climbing

 
 

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