19th Piolets d'Or : April 13-16 2011 in Chamonix and CourmayeurThu, 14/04/2011 - 12:14 — Petzl News
The annual international celebration of modern alpinism
This weekend at the foot of Mont Blanc, the Piolets d'Or will bring together alpinists, climbers and mountain enthusiasts from across the globe for the annual celebration of alpinism.
The year 2010 was marked by the exploration of many largely unexplored ranges with numerous first ascents completed by alpinists from the world over - with 53 major ascents in twenty different countries from Antarctica to Greenland, and from Alaska to the highest summits of Asia.
The Piolets d'Or recognizes the efforts and achievements of mountaineers who uphold the ethics and values of the
Piolets d'Or charter. The Jury studied the year's ascents in detail and nominated six routes. This weekend they will choose one or more recipents for the Piolet d'Or.
Petzl is an officila partner of the event, this year two expeditions among the nominees were sponsored by Petzl.
The Ascents Nominated for the 19th Piolets d'Or are...
South East Face of Mount Foraker (5 304m), Alaska
3 200m route on the South East Face of Mount Foraker (5304m), Alaska by Colin Haley (USA) and Bjorn-Eivind Artun (Norway): 71 hours without a bivouac to test the limits of non-stop alpine climbing.
South East Face of Mount Logan (5959m), Canada
2 500 m route on the South East Face of Mount Logan (5959m), Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama (Japan): 4 bivouacs.
West Face of Vasuki Parbat (6 792m), India
First ascent of the West Face (1600m) of Vasuki Parbat (6792m), India by Malcom Bass and Paul Figg (UK): the second only ascent of the peak, 10 days on the route.
Lunag 1 South East (6 830m), Nepal
First ascent of Lunag 1 South East (6830m), Rolwaling Himal, Nepal by Max Belleville, Mathieu Détrie, Mathieu
Meynadier and Sébastien Ratel (France): 3 bivouacs. Expedition supported by Petzl. More info: Petzl Team
East Face of Mount Edgar (6618m), China
First ascent of the East Face (2500m) of Mount Edgar (6618m), Minya Konka Range, Sichuan province by Bruce Normand (UK) and Kyle Dempster (USA): second ascent of this peak with 3 approach days and 5 days on the route.
Big walls, Greenland
9 new routes on the big walls on the West & South coasts of Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favressse (Belgium) and Ben Ditto (USA): the most committing - Devil's Brew, took 10 days. Most of the routes were started from their basecamp boat captained by Briton Bob Shepton (75 yrs). Expedition supported by Petzl. More info: Vertical Sailing Greenland
JURY FOR THE 2011 EVENT:
All members of the jury are well-known personalities in the world of mountaineering. Acclaimed alpinists and journalists, they are recognized as having experience, competence and integrity.
- Greg Child (Australia, alpinist), President of the 2010 Jury
- Enrico Rosso (Italy, alpinist)
- Yannick Graziani (France, alpinist)
- Simon Anthamatten (Switzerland, alpinist)
- Michael Pause (Germany, journalist)
- Hiroshi Hagiwara (Japan, journalist)
2011 PIOLET D'OR LIFETIME CONTRIBUTION AWARD : Doug Scott
After the recognition of the outstanding contribution to alpinism of Walter Bonatti (2009) and Reinhold Messner (2010),
the 2011 lifetime contribution Piolet d'Or will be presented to Doug Scott.
The organisation commitee proposes an alpinist who's commitment and ethics has marqued his era.
Doug Scott represents alpine adventure and d'exploration all around the world. He is one of the visionary climbers that proved that the highest peaks can be climbed with a few friends and the content of a backpack.
More informations and detailed program