In the early hours of Sunday, October 30, one of the greatest Petzl RocTrips ever came to an end. Here in the Getu valley, the last few days have witnessed the very best of rock climbing, community sharing and entertainment.
Yesterday at the great Arch, above the eyes of hundreds of spectators, Dani "La Machina" Andrada sent all the pitches of his huge project, "Corazon de Ensueno". To complete this feat he was belayed all the way by Chris Sharma.
Here's a short interview with Dani Andrada:
Q : How long did it take you to set up this humungous 8-pitch route that travels in the huge ceiling of the great arch?
A : It took me 11 days of hard work, most of the time alone using solo aid technique. In the critical pitch, located at the lip of the arc, Yann Ghesquier went up with me to belay in better conditions.
Q : How much work on the route was necessary to free those pitches?
A : I worked on them for 3 days, free climbing all of them separately. I took a good rest Friday and went for the link on Saturday.
Q : Your impressions after sending it ?
A: This is definitely the best climb I have ever created. It's hard, long, and so unique. After 4 pitches you find yourself in the ceiling of the arch, the belay station is actually a 10-meter wide suspended cave! And the following pitch is pretty unique - sort of like downclimbing 8b+. It's totally "inhumane".
Q: After sending it, what would you rate the pitches?
A: L1: 8a+, L2: 8b, L3: 7c+, L4: 7a, L5: 8b+, L6: 8c, L7: 7c+ /8a, L8: 8a+
This was Dani's third visit to the Getu valley. Dani was here for the two bolting trips last year. Over the past ten years, Dani has attended almost all the RocTrips. He finds that Getu destination is very unique mix of Asian and Western culture. He enjoyed a RocTrip without a designated Ultimate Route, allowing everyone the maximum to try whatever routes they like to and suit their style.
In the Great arch of Getu, all the invited pro athletes gave a real show with numerous sends of the sport routes and many ascents of the multi-pitch routes. "Lost in translation" saw three parties: Sean Villanueva teamed up with Ethan "Spiderman" Pringle, Mayan Smith Gobat climbed with Lynn Hill and Steve McClure tied in with Cody Roth (Steve called the route "mindblowing". On the opposite side of the arch "Brazilian Fuse" received the visit of Nina Caprez and Stephanie Bodet, Florence Pinet with Melissa Le Nevé, Dédé Dulac teamed up with Mumin Karabas from Turkey and onsighted the route.
Meanwhile, many groups of climbers were active on essentially all the other routes of the area.
After nightfall, all climbers gathered on the plaza of the village, to share a meal and celebrate. All but a few people down from the arch in enough time to catch the last boat. Fortunately, those that got stuck had sufficient swimming skills to be able to join the party later on. After local music and dances, came a very unusual surprise: two couples of Chinese climbers were officially married on stage under the authority of Lynn Hill!
After a gathering all the team athletes, the stage was then under the control of the Sagagnass Sound System (Said Belhaj, Kyom, Lafouche, Petitou) who happily hosted: Sean Villanueva on flute, Wan as MC and "Rocker" on electric guitar. The Getu Plaza was totally packed and bouncing. Later on, Dave Graham pulled a fabulous live set with the scratch master Vlad.
By Sunday afternoon, things had quieted down and many visitors chose to stay around for a few more days and take advantage of the amazing climbing in this unique valley.
Petzl would like to thank all the participants, volunteers and route setters. And the other sponsors, in particular Ozark and La Sportiva for their support. Most of all we wish to thank the villagers of the valley of Getu for such a warm welcome. Xie Xie!
All the news during the Petzl RocTrip China :
- 04/11/2011 - VIDEO - Petzl RocTrip China, the trailer
- 30/10/2011 - Petzl RocTrip China : Where there's a will (and strong arms), there's a way
- 28/10/2011 - Petzl RocTrip: Out of the Rain and into the Great Arch
- 24/10/2011 - Petzl RocTrip Getu: The Place to Be.
- 21/10/2011- Download the Getu valley climbing guide book